Yes, Saint Laurent went with that glow-in-the-dark concept during Paris Fashion Week and the crowd either loved it or despised it. But we all need someone to shake up the runway some way or other in the name of ‘having some fun’.
That’s right; the fall/winter 2019 collection has finally hit the runways of Paris Fashion Week — the final leg of fashion month. We’ve seen everything from the debut of Paul Andrew for Salvatore Ferragamo and Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta at Milan Fashion Week to Gucci’s extraterrestrial pieces courtesy of Alessandro Michele.
Last night, Chanel created a snow ski resort at the heart of the Grand Palais for its fall/winter 2019 show; what a way to pay tribute to Karl Lagerfeld on the last day of Paris Fashion Week. Guests were invited to a wintry scene with fir trees and wooden chalets covered in snow as some of Lagerfeld’s favourite muses including Cara Delevingne and Kaia Gerber walked solemnly down the runway.
Gloom aside; it’s time to divert our attention back to the French capital with highlights from Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2019.
Strong statement pieces were seen on Chanel’s fall/winter 2019 runway – Karl Lagerfeld’s final show. The collection began as a tribute to the kaiser but soon emancipated into a burst of celebratory colours like electric pink and azure to signify the start of a new era in the house of Chanel. Tweeds, fur coats and jackets reminded guests of the flawless tailoring, structure and shapes that had always been the brand’s legacy since the days of Coco Chanel.
The extensive 109 looks in Balenciaga’s fall/winter runway boiled down to two things: impeccably tailored and wearable pieces. Creative director Demna Gvasalia took a softer approach to put together the most polished show yet. The collection featured simple unpretentious looks with many oversized pieces in vivid monotone colours.
You’d expect utilitarian pieces from Hermès in each runway show – of course highlighting the prominent use of leather. But Hermès took a slightly different route this time with a more edgy approach to contemporary classics. Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski gave polished designs that ranged from midi pencil skirts to panelled jackets and silk sleeve printed tees in its fall/winter collection. Buckles and hemline details were accentuated as the brand’s signature aesthetics with a play on monochromatic tones.
Creative director Sarah Burton journeyed back to her hometown in Northern England for her latest collection. She played around with traditional printed florals in a three-dimensional approach with exaggerated folds to create volume and drama – honest to the brand’s aesthetics, combining elegance with a touch of whimsy.
Pierpaolo Piccioli is a genius. It’s hard to describe his latest fall/winter collection in exact words but each look had a poetic air of romance and dreaminess – captivating the audience. Feminine collar-bows, feather-like silhouettes and fluid fabrics walked down the runway with such immaculate that the creative director received the biggest standing ovation from the crowd. It was an ode to love. Piccioli used his designs to narrate the idea of love that comes with both joy and pain.
Colourful pieces were paraded down Stella McCartney’s fall/winter show – each carrying a strong message of sustainability. Her eco-friendly ethos gave rise to a series of looks made using materials from certified sustainable forests in Sweden. The collection featured fun and funky jewellery, multi-coloured dresses, structured silhouettes and a sense of comfort.
Isabel Marant’s fall/winter collection is a breath of fresh air. The designer took inspiration from her nomadic roots and transformed conventional forms into something undoubtedly hers – strong shoulders, nipped waists and peg legs. This neo-bohemianism has been prominent in the last few seasons is evident in Marant’s collection that is depicted in her signature palette of sandy neutrals and earthy tones.
Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri sought inspiration from Britain’s postwar Teddy Girls in this collection – working-class, rock ‘n’ roll-loving women who hit the clubs in a mix of men’s Edwardian jackets, leather, denim, big skirts and a bustier to exude sexiness. Clever separates were seen assembled together in this collection – a romper, a coat, a cape, a jacket and layers of checks, tulles and heavy textiles. Not to forget elements from the toile de Jouy also made their appearances on selected pieces. While the collection might be esoteric to some, many found it a refreshing start to Chiuri embracing her dark side – a rebel perhaps?